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Cory Breeding Tank setup

cories breeding tank setup

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8 replies to this topic

#1 cjerrom

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Posted 27 October 2014 - 08:13 PM

So I have been told by a few of you to breed these cories that I have so I am going to attempt to do that. But --- remember I am greedy and untalented in this area so I am looking for some expert guidance which I know that there are many out there.

90g - shallow tank- 4ft L x 24" Wide and 20" tall broken into 4 equal compartments with each having a spray bar across the top from an FX5/6 canister but each having a drain back to the canister and a sponge filter in each. Inline hydor heater set to 76-78F for some and 80-84F for the warmer cories. All the tanks will be on separate FX5/6's and operate separately except with a central air pump (General Hydroponics- dual diaphragm).

Do I go bare bottom, add ghost shrimp, sand bottom, mops and whatever else I should know?

I have live, pellet, frozen and repashy (Spawn and Grow) food available as a great fattener/conditioner. As well as 25% weekly water changes - pH7.8 and high TDS (330-400) but I can adjust it with my water softner (Kinetico and RO) as well as lower the pH down to 6.0 if needed.

 

Cories in Tank 1: C.weitzmani, green lasers, similis, and reynoldsi - 76-78F

Cories in Tank 2: C.duplicareus, adolfi, sterbia and these CW87/68? or the Yellow cats (C123)

Apistos Tank 3: off topic but can you or has anyone ever kept both Apistos and cories together and bred them? I have A. viejeta (Red), Agassiz (Orange Fire), Cacautoides (Dbl red) and Pandurini that are ready to start already as well as German Blue Rams.

 

Anyways any feed back is appreciated as I want to get started on these tanks asap as they will take 10 days to build from a LFS.

 

 



#2 Dis

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Posted 28 October 2014 - 03:55 PM

Sounds like a good plan. My sterbai cories typically spawn on the glass and some spots on the glass where the air stone is flowing up the wall. The thing with breeding is patience. My group spawns once or twice a year. The interesting thing is if I move them to a different tank they usually spawn within a week.

Before getting any eggs research how to hatch them. Most people just pull them off.the glass with their hands and put the eggs into a bowl with an anti fungal (I use meth blue) and an air stone. I'm sure you can just Google this method. Goodluck

#3 2wheelsx2

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Posted 28 October 2014 - 07:27 PM

I feed fdbw in my discus tank and have a dozen or so Sterbai cories which breed pretty much non-stop on the glass.  I do 2 - 3x 50 - 75% wc a week and have the temp at 28 and the TDS at about 80 with Equilibrium, if it helps any.  I have white sand on the bottom, but the cories always spawn on the glass, which is a great delight to all the tetras, discus and dwarf cichlids in the tank.


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How many addictions can I have without overload?
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#4 Bwhiskered

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Posted 28 October 2014 - 11:13 PM

For all my cory breeding I set up 6 to 10 in a 10 or 15 gallon tank most of them are bare bottom. Most corys only require room temperature in the low 70's although sterbia and caudimaculatus like to spawn at 82. Even they often need a cold water change to trigger a spawn along with adding a pail or two of RO water. Some will spawn in a yarn mop and others on the glass. Some spawn half on the glass and half in a floating or sunken mop. They should be fed well on live black or white worms. I collect the eggs and place them in a bowl of water from the parents tank with a drop of acriflavine and an air stone away from bright light. They hatch in 4 to 7 days and need Micro worms as a first food about 3 days after hatching if the yolk sac has been absorbed. Hope this helps you out.


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#5 bigdaddyo

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Posted 29 October 2014 - 12:33 AM

You will have to try a few things to find out what works for you.
I have green lasers that spawn when ever they feel like it. I can't seem to trigger them, they lay eggs on the glass and firm leaf plants.
My orange laser Cory's will spawn after a cold water change and spawn on the glass and in the substrate (ada soil).
I can't seem to trigger my black Cory's but the spawn rather regularly. They will lay their eggs on anything, glass, java fern/moss, anubius....

#6 cjerrom

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Posted 29 October 2014 - 04:21 PM

I bought a chiller from a saltwater setup and it can lower my temps within 24hrs by 8-10C so I am thinking of putting it on a timer once it's all setup and using it to trigger all the cold water cories??
Spawning mops don't seem to be the norm in these setups but bare bottom seems to be the way to go for cleanliness and discovery of the eggs. Fry - what are you all feeding- live baby shrimp? Do you increase the temp after they are free swimming and of so do you see an increase in growth?

#7 Bwhiskered

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 10:45 PM

I bought a chiller from a saltwater setup and it can lower my temps within 24hrs by 8-10C so I am thinking of putting it on a timer once it's all setup and using it to trigger all the cold water cories??
Spawning mops don't seem to be the norm in these setups but bare bottom seems to be the way to go for cleanliness and discovery of the eggs. Fry - what are you all feeding- live baby shrimp? Do you increase the temp after they are free swimming and of so do you see an increase in growth?

 

A chiller is not a fast instant change which is needed such as a 50% cold water change right from the tap which some require. All corys do not spawn on the glass they need something you can pick eggs from thats why we need mops of yarn such as used for killies and rainbows. 75 to 78 is good for raising fry of most corys. Start the fry with micro worm for a few days before feeding live baby brine shrimp. I have raised a 1000 or more corys of at least 2 dozen species. Buy Ian Fuller's book on breeding corys.



#8 leisure_man

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Posted 31 October 2014 - 09:02 AM

Yup, Ian's book is a must for anyone serious about breeding corys, otherwise, you should just stick with guppies.



#9 cjerrom

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Posted 07 November 2014 - 02:11 PM

Thank you Bwhiskered - great insight and I appreicate this greatly.
I have already ordered Ian Fullers book.
On the chiller note - my office where these tanks are is always 78-80F so I need the chiller to keep the temp lowered 4F and the cold water changes are just a catalyst to start the process. Finding live cultures of white worms is not common here but any live food should fatten these guys up. I have pH7.8 with very hard water over 1800 TDS But the fish have been doing great in it.
Just picked up 40 Sterbai and 20 Aldolfi so we will start with these in a 65g short (48"L x 14"t and 18" w) with a glass divider in three sections so I can leave on side for fry and I will mix them all together to raise. Sponge filters for now, breeding mops and microsorium plants on wood for interior decorating. Just going to start the conditioning program.





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